Tuesday, January 13, 2015

Sinharaja World Heritage Reserve

Sinharaja World Heritage Reserve, Man and Biosphere (MAB) Reserve the largest remaining undisturbed south western lowland rainforest in Sri Lanka, categorized as a tropical wet evergreen forest. Dense and mysterious Sinharaja is a forest for many activities: photography, leisure and for scientific exploration and is Sri Lankas greatest natural heritage.

It spans over the districts of Ratnapura, Galle and Matara.  The Reserve lies in the south-west of the island at 60 21' - 60 26' N. and 800 21' - 800 34' E. It measure 21 kilometers in length, and 7 kilometers in width at its widest point and 3 kilometers at its’ narrowest. Sinharaja is a rain forest of 11,187 hectares. With the contiguous Morapitiya – Runakanda, Panagala, Dellawa, Neluketiya, Warathalagoda and Delgoda forest reserves Sinharaja becomes the largest wet zone forest. It is extending across an altitudinal range of 210 to 1180 m.  Sinharaja forests covers receives 3750-5000mm of rain throughout the year. The Plant density inside the forest is 240,000 plants per hectare. Sinharaja forest is highly recognized as a biologically unique ecosystem because of its endemic tree species (More than 60%) and many of them are considered rare. It does not stop from that. It is also home to over 50% of Sri Lanka's endemic species of birds, mammals, butterflies, as well as many kinds of insects, reptiles and rare amphibians. It was declared as an international Man and Biosphere reserve (MAB) and a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1978 and 1988. 

Sri Lanka is a continental island. Although the island has been connected with the mainland time to time by land bridges since the initial separation, forests have been identified as being ecologically isolated. Western Ghats in India are the closest other moist forests to Sri Lanka. Western Ghats of India and South Western of Sri Lanka comprise of one of the 34 bio diversity hotspots of the world. This shows the exceptionally high level of endemism and diversity. Also the threat it faces.
Enter the wilderness.

From Northern or Western parts of the country you can reach Sinharaja forest reserve via Ratnapura, Kiriella, Kalawana, Weddala. From the South you can enter Sinharaja Rain Forest from Deniyaya. Coming from Hambantota, Udawalawe you can enter Sinharaja from Rakwana side. The best period to visit the forest is between December and early April or between August and September.

Kudawa entrance
Colombo to Mathugama or Rathnapura and then to Kalawana and Weddagala at which point you turn off the main road to the forest department camp at Kudawa. Public transport is available up to Weddagala via Mathugama 117km and via Ratnapura 154km. Weddagala to Kudawa 5.6 km public transport facilities are available.

Pitadeniya Entrance
Colombo to Mathugama and then to Deniyaya via Neluwa travel 10km from Deniyaya to Mederipitiya and then walk 3kmfurther and cross Gin Ganga to reach the camp. The camp is located by the side of Gin Ganga in Dombagoda forest.

Morning Side Entrance
Colombo to Rakwana via Deniyaya or Rathnapura and proceed through Suriyakanda and turn off the main road through morning side state track to forest department conservation center. Visitors can reach up to Rakwana by public transport and have to walk about 05 km through state track if private transport is not arranged.
How the Sinharaja rain forest acquired its name has many stories with different versions. However none has been proved scientifically, but still Falk lore & legends are always interesting and catch our attention. It gives us a mixed feeling of creep, inquisitiveness and past gloriousness. Sinharaja Forest myths are lost in the mists of legend and lore. Its name, literally meaning lion (sinha ) king (raja ).Both the forest and the Sinhalese people derive their names from the Sinhalese word "Sinha" – the Lion, and according to legend, sinhalese race is the result of the union between a princess and a mighty lion who lived in the forest. Perhaps it also refers to the people of the legendary 'lion-race' of Sri Lanka, or to the home of a legendary lion of Sri Lanka. Some legends state that in the Sinharaja forest lived a mighty lion that ruled the area brought dread in to the hearts of the villagers. Another says that the “Sinharaja Adaviya” meaning the Sinharaja forest is said to have been the royal territory belonging to the ancient Kings of Sri Lanka.
Sinharajas habitat comprises of four main stratums. They are: Canopy, Sub canopy, Under storey and Ground flora. These play a vital role in keeping together the relationship between flora and fauna, its distribution and sustainability. Trees that grow with a height of 30-45m are considered as canopy. They absorb sunlight freely and grow to be giants. Average diameter reaches up to 5m (16feet).  Sub canopy group to block the sunlight from falling below. They grow up to a height of 25-30m and join hands with each other to create a layer like canopy. Under storey consists of trees with heights up to 20-25m and has a horizontal growth pattern. Take usage of the available space. Ground flora has very little opportunity to absorb sun light so they have the survival technique to grow with minimum supply of sunlight. Mostly ferns and shrubs belong to this category. Other than these major categories there are epiphytes that grow on the trunks of trees, climbers which are vines that grow up and around the trees searching for sun light and parasites that grows on trees and nourished by trees. Different types of fungi also grow in abundance.

Nature rivulet emerging from the forest of Sinharaja is a common sight. Over the wooded area with crystal clear water draining into various ways is truly breathtaking. Sinharaja forest plays a vital role in maintaining the continuous supply of water. These rivulets found within the forest, feed the rivers like Kalu Ganga and Gin Ganga.

The vegetation within the reserve can be categorized into three main types: the lower slopes and valleys (150 - 600 meters), middle slopes (600 - 1000 meters) and the upper slopes and ridges (above 1,000 meters)The lower slopes and valleys have trees like “hora, bu hora” as the dominant canopy trees. On the middle slopes there are trees like Batu Na, Diya Na and Dun. In the upper slopes and ridges, the tree size decreases. Among the large trees of the canopy, columnar tree boles are an abundant sight. These are supported by plank buttress roots, a common characteristic of large rain forest trees. The total vegetation density of the forest has been estimated to be around 240,000 individuals per hectare. Forest gaps occur randomly and are caused by natural phenomena such as the death of large trees or the uprooting by the wind. In these gaps when the light starts to reach the ground, growth rate of saplings and other vegetation increase vigorously and forms impenetrable thickets. 

Bio Diversity of Sinharaja is unique and among the richest in the world. Many researches have been carried out and are being done up to date. Even today new species of plants and animals are discovered. Sinharaja has typical tropical lowland rain forest or tropical wet evergreen forest bio diversity. 

In the Sinharaja, floristic studies revealed the presence of many endemic floras. Sinharaja has many trees with high medicinal value. E.g. Venival, Godapara, Keena, Wanaraja, Iru raja etc are used to cure tetanus, joint breaks and sprains, snake bites. Insect trapper (Badura) and wanaraja are plants that can be observed in Sinharaja, famous for the insect trapping mechanism and medicinal qualities. The reserve is famous as a house of Orchids. They are spread throughout the reserve with their graceful beauty adding a touch of elegance to the reserve. 

The reserve is famous for endemic birds; it is the ideal place for ornithologists and bird watchers to study about feeding flocks. Almost all bird watchers and bird lovers visit Sinharaja to study about these endemic and migrant birds where very little resources are needed. In Sinharaja during an observation of a bird flock, one can observe about 30-50 birds belonging to different species. Capturing the perfect moment of a flock is truly challenging but rewarding too.  These flocks give life to the forest with their noise and movements.  Feeding flocks of Sinharaja are the most studied group in the world. So what is a flock? A flock can be described as two or more species moving in the same direction. A feeding flock means a one with movements associated with feeding. They can sometimes be mixed flocks. E.g. birds with squirrels.The most frequent species in the flocks were the Orange-billed Babbler and the Great Crested Drongo. Some of the rare and attractive endemic bird species in Sinharaja are Sri Lanka Red-Faced Malkoha, Sri Lanka Magpie, Sri Lanka Spur- Fowl, Sri Lanka Ashy-Headed Laughing Thrush, Sri Lankan White Faced Starling, Green Billed Cockle, Serendib Scope Owl.

 Sinharaja possess the perfect environment for amphibians; nature rivulets, wet soil, humidity, constant rains make it the ideal place for their habitat.  Many species of tree frogs can be found in Sinharaja and other Lowland rain forests of Sri Lanka and most of them are endemic and rare. Some were recently discovered and still there are many researches done on this field. Some of the rare and endemic frog species recorded only in Sinharaja from the world. Among the reptiles Green Garden Lizard, Common Garden Lizard and endemic Kangaroo Lizards are common. With a little luck Hump Nosed Lizard is the largest in the island and one of the most attractive lizards one will observe in Sinharaja. Three lizard species are of most important to Sinharaja. Two are recorded only in the morning side of the reserve and the world; they are, Eartleny Horn Lizard and Karus Horn Lizard. The Rough Horn Lizard is recorded only in Sinharaja and other wet lowland rain forests. Among the snakes The Green Pit Viper is endemic and Hump-nosed Viper, green vine snake are commonly found in this forest. Blossom krait is one of the few rare snakes recorded in lowland rain forests.

Natures flying fairies; the butterflies bring Sinharaja vivid beauty that transfers the mysteriousness of the jungle to a decorative fantasy. Ceylon Bird Wing, Sri Lankan Tree Nymph Sri Lankan Blue Oak-leaf and Ceylon Rose are some endemic and rare attractive butterflies. Blue Mormon, Clipper,, Commander, Tale-jay, Common Mormon, Common Rose are some beautiful and large butterflies commonly found in the reserve. Sometimes Ceylon Rose and Oak-leaf may not appear as much as the others. Sambhur, the Mouse deer and barking deer are commonly found within the reserve. Leopards and fishing cat are very seldom sighted, purple - faced Leaf Monkey and giant squirrels also commonly observed. Red slender Loris, little ring civet cat, common farm civet cat, flying squirrel, are some nocturnal mammals.
In Sri Lanka, wilderness areas have long been subject to the activities of man, and Sinharaja is no exception. There are many villages scattered around the reserve. Villagers in these areas produce jaggery. Although the palm is not deliberately planted by the villagers, seedlings which come up naturally tended and looked after. Tapping of trees within the forest is controlled by the Forest Department. Another source of income for the villagers is the manufacture of baskets and other woven products made of “wewal and bamboo”.
The villagers also exploit other plant products. The fuel used by the villagers for cooking, making jaggery is firewood gathered from the forest. The villagers also collect and sell products from a number of plants like dried cardamom, a spice sold at a very high price. Resin, from the trunk of “Kekuna” is used as water proofing agent. Numerous plants used in the "Ayurvedic" medicine are also collected and sold by the villagers. The stem of “Weniwel” is a fine example. Timber for house construction is also obtained from trees in and around the Reserve.

It is advisable that those who visit the forest be sensitive to the need to conserve it. Create awareness to protect Sinharaja and other rain forests. It is our duty and responsibility as nature lovers. Development of buffer zones can contribute a lot in conserving not only Sinharaja but other forest reserves as well. Construction of hotels and constructions of roads over the protected areas will result in irrecoverable damages.

This unique green patch has taken Sri Lanka to the top list of bio diversity rich countries and boosts Sri Lankas tourism and eco tourism. People from all over the world visit Sri Lanka to study, research and enjoy these magical spots and has amazed many wild life and eco experts around the globe. Sinharaja, a tropical virgin rain forest is undoubtedly the centre of forest attraction!

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